EJ400 Turbo Kit: Whoooaaa, Double Rainbow!!

Shakedown -

Day 1:

Here it is, the moment of truth, DYNO DAY!

The Arizona heat is the worst of the worst case scenario. You’d be hard pressed to find testing conditions as brutal as the Summer in Arizona. It’s monsoon season, humidity is high, and today’s temp is currently at 105F and rising to a high of 112F. – Uuugh, SO HOT!

The Test Car is a 2007 2.0T FSI GTI. It’s spec’d out with our complete EJ400 Turbo Kit, a Eurojet Prototype OEM Fitment FMIC, Eurojet Turbo-back Exhaust, RS4 Injectors, Autotech HPFP, and a few other bits. If you want the complete list of mods you can check it out HERE

The Programming on the car is the Unitronic Base File Tune. It is not specific to this kit. We’ll be working with Unitronic to fine tune the kit on their engine dyno this coming week.

We can go on and on, but we’ll let the numbers of the kit speak for themselves.

Run 1: Ambient Temp – 105F with 7 Heat Range Plugs
Check out the IAT’s on the first run. The Eurojet IC is pulling the temps down to within near ambient specs. We blew the plugs once the car hit about 330WHP. So, we ran out and got a colder set of plugs and ran it again. By this time, it was pushing 112F outside.

Lesson to be learned? Don’t use NGK7 Heat Range plugs if you plan on going over 330HP in 100F+ Weather. You can see in the pic of the first dyno run where the power curve started to get all choppy and dropped off – detonation ate through plugs 1 and 4. We’d like to thank Keith at AZ Dynochips for all his help and patience as we had to use his loaner car to run to BAP and pick up some colder spark plugs.

Run 2: Ambient Temp – 112F with 8 Heat Range Plugs
Again, check out those IATs!! The FMIC is doing great in 112F weather. I can’t imagine any worse conditions to test your car in. In these desert conditions, during monsoon season with relatively high humidity, we put down 370whp and 344ft/lbs.

That’s good enough for us on a base Unitronic tune in these conditions. That’s over 430bhp!! Once tuned properly we’ll be at a smooth 400+whp on our Stage2 tune (Rods Required).


Lesson here? Lots of power is VERY addicting.

Eurojet EJ400 First Shakedown Video

We stopped and visited some of our friends at EPIC automotive:

Day 2:

It’s hot, the monsoons are barreling in, and we need to get on the road. We’ve got 1400 miles in front of us and we need to get rolling.

We cleared the city without much of an issue. Temps were above 102 and we’re getting our money’s worth out of these tires. So grateful that the speed cameras in Phoenix have been deactivated :) We hit the I-17 and shot up towards Flagstaff.

The good first half of the day was filled with rain and overcast conditions with plenty of humidity. The turbo kit did really well in the wet-drizzly conditions while making the climb from 1400ft elevation all the way up to 6000+ft elevation in Flagstaff. We couldn’t really stretch the kit’s legs because of the weekend traffic, but we found that we always had power available and could pass in 6th gear without an issue going up hills and just cruising.

We followed this guy for about 20 miles on the hike up to Flagstaff. MOVE!!!

Left for the Curves!!!

I think that it’s time to buy a new pair of shoes Darrin.

For the sake of transparency, at times we had a bit of hesitation under partial throttle loads, but we learned how to manipulate throttle loads with your foot to smooth driving. Under 80% + throttle load, the turbo pulls real smooth and the car puts a smile on everyone’s face. The hesitation will be cured once we get the software dialed in with our specific hardware (wastegate, MAF housing, etc.) All in all, the car pulls real strong and makes its way up and down mountain roads with no problems.

Finally getting closer to Utah after about 4 hours of driving. We came to a fork in the road: Twisties or Straight-aways? We head left to the curves! Running our way through the canyons in southern Utah got the blood pumping, and we all decided the 45 MPH speed limit was more of a “suggestion.”

In case you’re wondering how the kit will run under different conditions, look no further.  We shot through rain and sun, streaked through the hot and cold, and even took the car up to 8000 ft above sea level!  We experienced a few minor software issues, but nothing that Unitronic can’t iron out in the final stages of tuning.

We were in no rush so we took some time to pull over pretty often, make sure everything was running well, and take some pictures. Who says a 1400 mile road trip has to be strictly business?

We stopped in Colorado City to take this pic coming into Utah. We were looking for Warren Jeff’s hotties, but didn’t find any of appropriate age. Oh well, in a few years.

Finally, the omen we had been waiting for!!! WhooooooOOOOOoooOOOooooaaaaaa!!! A Double Rainbow!!! It’s so intense! Do you know what this means!!!

Arizona down. Utah, Idaho, Montana, back through Idaho, and Washington here we come!

Day 3:

Making our way up through Utah our trip continued with a 1000 mile day. It was a loooong drive and night set in the last 6 hours or so of driving. We were prepared for the worst, but everything went off without a hitch. The only thing we were really upset about was that the bakery we wanted to eat at was closed. But we did stop at this awesome Harley Davidson dealer with a building made out of an old torn down steel factory – it was one of the cooler buildings we’ve ever seen!

What is Darrin doing to that bush?

We stopped at a few places and visited with some friends as we continued on our trek. We passed through some fun lightning storms as we approached Idaho.  We continued up into Montana, swung over on I-90 and passed back through the panhandle on our way into Washington.  We didn’t take a ton of pics through these parts since it was getting dark and we were all hopped up on Monster Nitrous energy drinks (Gross! Now that I think about it) and started to get a little loopy near the end of the trip…15 hours of straight driving will make you do some strange things.

Here are a few of the final details:  The MFD showed an average of between 35 and 36 MPG during the entire trip.  Outside temps ranged between 55 and 115 °F.  For the most part we were traveling about 85 MPH.  Total trip was right around 1450 miles.  Driving time was about 7 hours the first day and 15 hours the second – we made a lot of stops, but we had a good time – we’re really excited with the results. 

Most importantly the EJ400 Kit performed as designed. It was installed, dyno’d, and then ran across country in just a few days! There were no glitches, break-downs, or hardware failures along the way. The only issues we ran into were with a set of $30 spark plugs on the dyno!

Proven, Solid, Performance. Eurojet.

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Suck it!!!

That’s right: your engine will be sucking tons of air now that our intakes are done!  They look great and they sound even better.  We think they’re perfect and they’re definitely affordable!  Click on the pics for more info – they’ll take you to our site.  Pricing is $228.99 for the full kit!  And if you want to add an S3 relocation kit it’s only $250 extra!  Please bear with us – our site is under construction right now because we’re trying to keep things streamlined as far as design.

All intakes come with our proprietary 2.75″ cone filter that can be purchased separately as well:

Our CNC’ed MAF flanges allow us to fab this intake up for both the FSI and TSI motors:

Powdercoated, mandrel-bent aluminum piping looks nice to boot:

And last but not least, we include custom 5-ply silicone pieces to fit through those rough and cramped areas of your engine bay!  No need to worry about clanging metal anymore:

We can’t tell you how much time we’ve spent making these look and fit just right.  Look at all this welding:

We’re pretty happy with how it all turned out.  Here are a few shots of it installed:

We decided not to skimp and are making every intake a full Cold Air Intake!

The filter sits right underneath the driver’s side headlamp and sucks in nothing but dense, cold goodness!

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Who Doesn’t Love Boost…You Know You Want It

Along with our cast FSI kit we have a few tubular options. We recently added some 12V VR6 goodness to the list of turbo hardware solutions as well as a 1.8T T3 Divided manifold. In the next few months we will also be adding a 2.5L option and 2.0T FSi/TSi T3 Divided system. Keep checking back here as we will update this post with pics of tubular hardware kits

1.8T Transversed T3 Top Mount

46/44mm wastegate flanged

12V VR6 T4 Divided

3″ Vband downpipe with 38mm MVS wastgate flages/dump tubes

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We can all breathe a little easier now!

Our intakes are done!  We know a lot of you thought it was never going to happen – in fact, we told a lot of you that it was never going to happen, but here it is:

It’s a thing of beauty!  We used pipes in all the right places, and we used silicone in all the important places, too!  We run a silicone piece up off the turbo with an inlet option for an S3-style DV re-route (which can be bundled with our intake.)  It can also be plugged if you choose not to run our re-route kit (here’s a pic of our intake with the S3 silicone re-route piece.  We run a hard pipe for the MAF sensor to bolt into and then run a silicone elbow up, over, and around the brake booster and lines so you don’t run into clanking or other issues you may have seen with intkaes that are already on the market.  Our final pipe is mandrel bent and runs down behind and underneath the headlamp to suck in cold air from underneath the car and coming in through the driver’s side bumper grille.  Here’s a pic of our kit with the S3 silicone re-routing hose:

The best part is it works on both the Fsi and Tsi motors!  Here are a few pics of it installed:

Pricing will begin just under $230 for the intake and it should be ready to go mid-August!

Also, make sure to visit our facebook page!

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Eurojet-Development-Inc/125421207473034

Or you can click on any one of the photos on this page and it will direct you there!  We’re working on integrating our blog and our facebook page to help you get your Eurojet fix as easily and as often as possible!

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MKIV Boost Gauge Install

Ronnie recently installed one of our electronic boost gauges in his MKIV.

Here are some of the pics:

And here it is, installed and lit up, in all its glory:

Here’s an install we did recently on a MKII:

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I HAZ BOOST

So I took advantage of my car being ripped apart for a 3071 BT install and I decided to ease some minds by taking pics of my boost gauge and how I installed it.  It’s pretty straightforward; essentially you just install the junction box as if it were a mechanical gauge by hooking it up to a good vacuum/boost source.  Here is the pic of where I tapped mine through the intake manifold:

You probably noticed our boost tap/intake manifold block off piece I’m running with our catch can.  I’m going to switch soon and just run both the DV and the boost gauge off that boost tap; it will keep things cleaner and will keep installs/uninstalls easier too.

And here is where I mounted the digital conversion box:  (you can put it wherever, but it’s better to keep it close to the vacuum/boost source:

The wires for the conversion box go to the gauge.  There is another harness that plugs into the gauge that provides power for the whole system.  There is a black wire that needs to be grounded *anywhere* you should so desire and a red wire that needs 12V power from the battery all the time.  I decided to wire mine through an open fuse spot in my in-dash fuse box so as to keep things, again, simpler.  I like having it there, too, so I can access the wires fairly easily.

You can probably tell which fuse I used – it’s the one that doesn’t really match the rest.  I did that on purpose so I’d remember which one was my gauge.

The wiring for the gauge lighting is simple but can get complicated if you get the dimmer switch involved I believe.  I wanted my gauge lit up blue all the time so I ran the red, white and orange wires all to the 12V battery source.  If you want it lit up white all the time you connect the white wire to 12V and leave the orange wire unconnected.  If you want your gauge to light up white during the day and blue at night then you hook up the white wire to the 12V source and the blue wire to your headlight/parking lamp switch (NOT the dimmer switch! – this has been known to cause problems.)  If you want it blue during the day and white at night then do the reverse: hook the white wire to the headlight/parking lamp switch and the blue to the 12V source. Here’s how mine looks:

Once you’ve got all that sorted out then all that’s left is to install the vent pod and the gauge itself.  Start by prying the driver’s side vent out of the dash with a thin piece of plastic (i just used a small flathead screwdriver but be careful not to scrape anything if you use something metal.)  Start at the corner; it’s going to take some force.  Obviously you don’t want to break anything but the whole vent unit will come out and you’ll simply remove the face by undoing some tabs from the sides, top, and bottom that hold it on:

I made a tiny hole in the venting so I could run the wires to the gauge without interfering with any of the A/C venting.

Make sure the wires have enough slack so you can pull them through the hole in the vent pod before you install the gauge.  It’s easiest if you hook both connectors up to the gauge and then slide the gauge back through the hole in the vent pod.  The first time I did it I added some thin foam padding to keep the gauge from rotating but I’ve realized that the pod does a good job of holding the gauge in with just the pressure fitment of the plastic molded piece.  Here’s the final product:

If you have any other questions, complaints, or death threats, email me at darrin@eurojetracing.com

*UPDATE*  When our gauges first came out they were *too bright* for some people.  Although the lighting was matched, the LED was really bright and for some people it threw everything off.  We replaced those gauges and now all of our kits come with a dimmer LED that matches the factory lighting perfectly!

Here’s what the old gauge looked like:

And here’s the new, dimmer LED:

Also make sure to check out our facebook page:

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Eurojet-Development-Inc/125421207473034

thanks!

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People need to cool down a bit

I am not surprised by your veiled attempt to undermine or berate us online with your accusations and harassment. It seems as if you’ve adjusted fairly quickly to the modus operandi of your employer. I guess that we get to be added to the list: AWE, VF, REVO, Forge, Ronnie’s Mom, Your Gerbil, and now us. I am not sure whether to take it as an honor, but considering the track record I’ll just roll my eyes.

So, let me address this for the final time. The manifest that another company posted and showed everyone is indeed correct. A little over two years ago, we were approached by an overseas manufacturer to purchase cores. So, we purchased a sample, tested, tested, changed some design aspects, and then tested again. The cores worked very well. So, we made a small order to run with our SMICs. The cores provided similar performance figures as our current North American/Mexico cores and we decided to make a small run of 30. Yup, we imported a test run of cores. So, sue us….Oh, wait a minute I forgot who I was talking about :D

Here is the data that we collected on the cores that we designed and ran a small batch of with the manufacturer.

The cores performed well. The only issue was the lead time and the headache of bringing them stateside. It took months for them to show, we had to purchase an enormous amount of inventory if we decided to make a follow up purchase, and the headache with customs was something that we didn’t want to deal with. So, we made the batch with that manufacturer, and that was that.

Let me divulge a bit of information about how this company came across this document. If you pay enough money, you can subscribe to the records of the US Census Bureau and pull documents on any company. Just like this site here: www.importgenius.com

A certain company within our market pays/paid hundreds of dollars each month to check up on their competitors and find their sources.  Rather than bootstrapping and running an honest and clean business they choose to incessantly argue on the forums, dig up as much dirt as possible, sue anyone that they can, and try to exploit anything that they can find as a weakness against any competitor in the market; VF, REVO, AWE, Eurojet, Forge or anyone else selling a product in the market place is not immune to their “drive-by” smear campaigns. But, who can blame them. They grease enough palms and pay enough advertising fees to get away with it. I know this firsthand.

I simply don’t understand it. I don’t know why companies can get so caught up in the drama and one-upping one another. Just make cool products and let the numbers speak for themselves.

Before I digress, I want to share a bit more. Before all of this chaos started at Eurojet I lived in Japan and played ball there for a few years. After I was done playing, some of my contacts from the team moved on and got jobs in the tuning industry. Because of my familiarity and language ability, I got picked up by an International company to market and inspect factories; unrelated to cars, but not specific to any one industry. I was a part of the ISO process and other duties within manufacturing and marketing.

As I inspected and did my work I became VERY familiar with products being made, who was making them, and where they were made. I also came across some of the biggest names in the industry: Greddy, HKS, Turbonetics, Veilside, Neuspeed, Honeywell, etc. You guys that are getting your turbos upgraded from down South would be surprised to know where those companies are getting their parts made ;)

I am also very familiar with where a few companies within our little market are having their products produced. I’ve got pictures, records, and all kinds of good stuff from the information that I compiled while working.

So, onto my point – The thought of sharing this information with the public and the consumer to gain approval and somehow aggrandize myself and business has never crossed my mind. Its cheap, petty, and shows a lack of character. “Psst, hey guys, wanna know where Forge makes their stuff. Wanna know where Neuspeed is making their wheels?”.  It’s just plain childish.

OK, now that is done, I want to talk about our FMICs. I am going to borrow a picture that Phil@BSH posted the other day.

The core on the Left is a Bar and Plate Core from Wuxi China. That is an industrial district outside of Shanghai. It is a common core that you can find on Ebay, from SS Autochrome, or Godspeed or whomever. It is also widely sold by hundreds of brokers posing to be factories and actual manufacturers. So, you’re never really sure what you’re getting or who you’re getting it from.

The cores on the left are painted because the AL/material is impure and they can’t show the original finish. So, its covered with silver paint. The pins are the same on just about 99% of the cores as well as the channel size. You’ll also notice the square shaped internal fins. These are pretty much status quo for the generic core. I can go on with the numerous other details, but it will bore you.

The core in the middle is not quite a Tube and Fine core. It is referred to as an ALT core. It has extruded tubes and internal fins. Its better than the plain and simple Tube and Fin cores that some use in our market. Not a bad core, actually.

Tube and fin cores generally come out of Taiwan, some come from Japan, but most companies there have shifted their production.  That ALT core is from a known manufacturer in Central Taiwan. If the shipping address is anything North of Taichung, you got it from a broker and not the actual manufacturer.

Lots of popular Japanese tuners use these cores. They are lightweight, pretty efficient, and do a decent job. But, they are susceptible to leaks after time and hard use. But, I guess that any core is…

The core on the right is a Mexican made Garrett core. Good pins, nice internal fins, dense as hell, good solid old school technology.

The Garrett core is a nice piece. Does what it needs to do. The only downside that I saw when working with those cores was that we were restricted to their sizing i.e. Phil was discussing in his thread and asking if guys would be able to tolerate trimming their bumpers with his upcoming FMIC. I am assuming that if he chose to go with Garrett he would be restricted to Garrett’s general sizing. When we used them we had to purchase a HUGE core and then cut the cores in half and then weld an Aluminum plate on the tops and then follow up with the end tanks. It was costly for production.

Also, we were restricted to their fin density which isn’t optimal for EVERY application. So, unless you’re running the same on every platform its not going to always be the best choice. There are many variables that come into play and other options may be a better solution for a specific application.

Now, after all that, onto the accusation that we used “Cheap Chinese Cores” -  I stated our current source in the first thread, so I don’t feel that its necessary to state it over and over again as I would like to maintain some sort of confidentiality. It’s the same source that provides cores for Turbonetics, Spearco, a very close tuner friend of ours in the USDM and the DSM market locally, us, and I am sure many many others. But, those are the only ones that I know of currently.

I just went down to the shop and took some pics. Check out our internal fins. We’ve designed the mold to fit our fpi (fins per inch) requirement, the pins are our own pin design, and the endtanks are from our own CAD designs and molds. And our cores don’t need to be painted ;)

Also, check out this article on cores. Take note of the internal fin, chamber, and pin design. Man, they look familiar ;)

http://www.dvdtfab.com/newcore.htm

Lastly, and I feel that it’s the most important, are the independent numbers put up by our customers. I let those speak for themselves. Here are a few:

413HP 1.8T

[quote=JC@Douglas]

Oh and to make it clear the car is very very consistant the 3 dyno runs on their go in this order i had 9 runs total

the 370whp is the 1st dyno run

the 368whp is the 5th dyno run and was a little less power because i changed the settings on the sps plus to be as rich as they could be

the 371whp was the 9th and final dyno run with the same sps settings as the very 1st dyno run..very very very consistant

EUROJET fmic gets a big :thumbup [/quote]

Also, our FMIC is running on the World’s most powerful Rabbit and Revo’s GT35R 2.0T. No other system out on the market has those types of numbers to back up their systems.

Check out these threads:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3601844&page=22

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3465119&page=1

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3737802

What it boils down to here is numbers from the customers. I can claim our kit does this and that over “X” company. But the results from our customers speak for themselves.

We have the most POWERFUL Privately owned MKVs in the US running our systems day in and day out at over 400HP with no problems or limits reached. To top it off we don’t sell a $250 core for $1100.

Peace.

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R32 + 2.5″ Stainless Eurojet Exhaust = Engine Harmonics

After months of trying to figure out the 3.2 Exhaust harmonics, I think that we finally nailed it! We’ve managed to eliminate cabin drone, retain a mean growl at wide open throttle, and produce one damn sexy exhaust.

Check out the final prototype pics and install and listen to the R32 ROAR!!

R32 Exhaust Note


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Boost Diversion = BOOM!!!

We had one of our locals come in the other day for a diverter valve upgrade. His old units were aging and the tolerances were worn and it began to lag a bit. So, we upgraded!!

Our customer is pushing close to 400HP in his 3071 powered 1.8T. We needed to make sure that his engine was boosting properly. So, we installed two of our 1″ Kugel Diverter Valves. We think that they look pretty cool.

For more information on the valves check us out at eurojetracing.com

We added some updates to the kit for our customer. He decided to go with a Race FMIC and we re-did the piping.


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K04s, Tig Welding, Grenades, and FSi POWER

We’ve developed a K04 Turbo upgrade for the VW MKV FSi 2.0T!

We taped up the bay and the fenders as to not scratch up the customer’s car while getting it prepped.


We yanked out the OEM Turbo and prepped and dropped in the new one.

Here’s the new turbo.

We yanked out the stock injectors for higher flowing injectors better suited for the K04 boost and performance levels.

It was necessary for us to fab up a new pipe for the discharge section. We think that it turned out pretty nice.

Installed our new Grenade DV with the kit!!

Getting it all buttoned up and ready for delivery.

This is by far the most streetable turbo upgrade kit for the 2.0T FSI currently available. The power delivery is smooth, refined, but yet very aggressive. We’re excited to be offering this kit at a reasonable price point. Check it out.

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